A modern, white building stands on a square. It is dusk, the square is illuminated. In the background is a large cathedral.

Artworks in Their Own RightExtraordinary Buildings in Baden-Württemberg

5.5.2021by Hirsch & Greif

Great buildings with contradictory histories.

Architecture is not just for today, but also for the future. New buildings may bring praise – or disapproval. Here are 9 cities, where important designs have triggered heated discussions.
1. Baden-Baden

Frieder Burda Museum

An architect with cult status. Before this project, the New Yorker Richard Meier had already designed the Getty Museum in Los Angeles and the Museum of Contemporary Art in Barcelona. He described this severe white building on Baden-Baden’s Lichtentaler Allee as a "translucent villa". There was fierce criticism of this Private Public Partnership (PPP), with its funding provided by a combination of private and state money. Even the glass bridge between the art gallery and the Frieder Burda Museum was regarded as a symbol of the opposing opinions. Today, the museum has world-wide appeal. Visitors come to see the art, but also to see the architecture: generous, unpretentious and welcoming.
A futuristic building stands next to an avenue, surrounded by greenery.
The Frieder Burda Museum is located in a prominent spot in the park at the Lichtentaler Allee Avenue in Baden-Baden.
2. Freiburg

University Library

The city has long been known for its medieval cathedral. Now, locals look forward to a “Bilbao effect”, thanks to the opening of the Unibibliothek (UB). Standing like a polished black diamond near the city theatre, its façade reflects surrounding buildings. Yet there have been problems. Freiburg is Germany’s sunniest city and some motorists were dazzled by the sun reflecting off the exterior. The answer? Draw the curtains. As for the interior, the lounge area has designer armchairs, while the 1,200 work stations even have security locks for laptops. Studying has never been more attractive.
The silhouette of a glass-covered, futuristic building is reflected in a pool of water in a city square.
The Freiburg University Library is mainly made of metal and glass.
3. Heidelberg

Bahnstadt District

This project is spectacular. In the middle of Heidelberg, apartments and jobs are being created for more than 10,000 people. As the world’s largest “passive house” estate, the Bahnstadt offers a model for sustainable living far beyond Germany. On what was once a freight yard, Bahnstadt offers both a variety of living spaces and a variety of solutions to modern problems. Take ventilation and energy use. With their complex ventilation systems, the houses don’t need traditional heating. They use 50 to 80 percent less energy than conventional buildings. So, they comply with the strict “passive house” standard of energy efficiency.
View of a modern neighborhood in a large city with many apartment buildings
From apartments to schools and from laboratories to cinemas, everything in Heidelberg's Bahnstadt district is being built to be energy efficient.
4. Heilbronn

experimenta

The experimenta building is made of glass and steel. The most striking element is the "spatial spiral." It runs through the building on five levels, connecting the different areas. From the roof terrace, guests can enjoy a fantastic view of the former Federal Garden Show grounds. Where there was once competition, there is now unity. The experimenta and the former Federal Garden Show continue to light up Heilbronn. The experimenta is Germany's largest experimental science center. Highlights include nine laboratories, a Science Maker Space, four themed worlds, four talent forges, an experimental stage, and an observatory. The Science Dome is a marvel of superlatives.
View of the experimenta Museum, palm trees by the water in the foreground
The experimenta in Heilbronn covers an area of 25,000 square meters. It is Germany's largest experimental center.
5. Karlsruhe
On the Platz der Grundrechte, Karlsruhe’s Fundamental Rights Square, artist Jochen Gerz has installed 48 signs. Each has its own statement; all reflect the overall theme of rights and justice for the individual in a democracy. Yes, there has been criticism, though not about the artist’s work, but rather its location. Some, such as the Karlsruhe Cityscape group, complain that the signs ruin the view from the marketplace to the castle. Others, such as the Green Party, say that the installation gets in the way of cyclists. This unusual art installation is a gift to mark the 50th anniversary of the Federal Constitutional Court. The signs will continue to put across serious ideas for the general public to think about.
On a square in a city lit up in the evening, there are many posts with texts printed on signs.
The artwork was installed near Karlsruhe's market square in 2005.
6. Mannheim

Mannheim's New Art Gallery

“A city within a city”. That is both a concept and an invitation to the Kunsthalle Mannheim, the city art gallery. In 2017, it opened an extension, which faces Friedrichsplatz, Mannheim’s most beautiful square. Not everyone finds the metal mesh on the outer façade “friendly”. Critics argue that this "temple of art" is too jarring a contrast with the Art Nouveau architecture around the square, especially the romantic Wasserturm Tower. Others, however, appreciate the restraint of the building. Inside, the museum is spacious and bright. Around the 72-ft/22-m high atrium, 13 exhibition “cubes” are grouped on three levels. Visitors stroll through galleries, over bridges and across terraces into rooms, where art is presented rather than celebrated.
View of a hall with green areas in front of it on which metal columns stand.
The squares on the Kunsthalle's façade allude to the city center of Mannheim's chessboard-like layout.
7. Pforzheim

Technisches Rathaus

In World War Two, 80 percent of the city of Pforzheim was destroyed. The Technisches Rathaus, designed in 1957 by architect Hans Schürrle, exemplifies the 1950s, a reminder of the era when the city was rebuilt. Now listed, this is considered one of the city’s best buildings. But it was not always valued so highly. Some members of the city council thought that it should be redeveloped as a shopping centre and that the cost of renovation was too high; still others suggested demolition. It was saved when citizens protested, accusing the council of “selling off the family silver”.

A multistory building covered in green plants.
Many of the details of the Technical Town Hall in Pforzheim are still the same as when it was built in 1957.
8. Stuttgart

Municipal Library

From the outside, the building looks like a simple cube. Inside, however, it is bright white, with a structure reminiscent of a pyramid. This colour and life bring books and visitors together under one roof. When it opened in 2011, the dramatic design split opinions: some even dubbed it the 'Book Prison'. But today, locals are proud of the landmark that has been rated among the 20 most beautiful libraries in the world by The Time magazine – Germany’s only library on the list! As well as book lovers, architecture fans come to see Cologne-based architect Eun Young Yi’s building on the Mailänder Platz Square. And as night falls, the white exterior is transformed; the windows start to glow a deep blue. It looks like a gigantic art installation!
In the dark, a futuristic building is illuminated in blue.
The Stuttgart City Library is an (almost) perfect cube. It is 40 meters high and has a floor plan of 44 x 44 meters. At night, the Municipal Library on th Mailänder Platz Square shines in deep blue.
9. Ulm

Stadthaus

Juxtaposed with the soaring late-Gothic Ulm Minster is the immaculate three-storey, geometric, white "Stadthaus". It’s a meeting place for visitors from all over the world. For more than 100 years, Ulm struggled with designs for the Minster Square. The site was considered "one of the most sensitive ones in the Federal Republic". In 1986, when the city fathers chose a design by New York architect Richard Meier, a storm of indignation broke out. Many believed that the cathedral should be the only building on the square. Now, after 25 years, the town house has become an international landmark of modern architecture and an integral part of the cityscape. The construction of this hall and exhibition space was the catalyst for the transformation of the city’s revitalised heart.
A modern, white building stands on a square. It is dusk, the square is illuminated. In the background is a large cathedral.
The Ulm Minster forms a striking contrast with the white townhouse.

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