Delicious Christmas Recipes from Baden-Württemberg

Golden-brown, widely known and a pastry of many names: in northern Baden and the Electoral Palatinate, he is known as a Dambedei; in southern Baden, as a Grättimann or Baselmann; and elsewhere, as a Weckmann or Klausenmann. Whatever his name, children instantly recognise him by his distinctive appearance. With his pointed head, raisin eyes, almond mouth and row of nut buttons, this little yeast-dough man is quite a sight.

In the past, the figure wore a bishop’s mitre and carried a crozier. Like many festive traditions, its origins lie in Christian customs: people excluded from church services were given blessed bread shaped like a man on the feast day of St Nicholas of Myra. This popular pastry figure is therefore still handed out on St Nicholas’ Day in many parts of Baden-Württemberg. In some places, however, it delights young and old as early as St Martin’s Day.

Summer or winter, for breakfast, as a lunchtime snack or as a light afternoon meal – pretzels are enjoyed in Baden-Württemberg at any time of day and throughout the year. And there is no chance of them becoming boring: the region is home to countless varieties, differing in how they are made, their shape and their flavour.

The Neujahrsbrezel, or New Year’s pretzel, is a special version of this traditional bake. For many people, it is an essential part of New Year celebrations. Evolving from a ring traditionally made for New Year, it remains a symbol of eternity and is a must at New Year’s breakfast. These good-luck charms are usually made from sweet yeast dough, though some are slightly savoury, and vary considerably in size and decoration. Particularly large examples can measure up to a metre across and weigh several kilograms, with elaborate plaited or cut decorations. According to an old tradition in Baden, coins are sometimes still baked into the New Year’s pretzels.