Historic Old Towns and Natural Beauty: Two Small-Town Gems Between the Kocher and Jagst Rivers
30.1.2021by Patrick Muntzinger | germanbackpacker
Half-timbered charm in Schwäbisch Hall, Baroque splendour in Ellwangen and outdoor experiences between the Kocher and Jagst Rivers: discover two small-town gems brimming with history, unexpected views and places you'll love.
A City Break in Schwäbisch Hall and Ellwangen
Rediscovering Home: Two Towns Full of Surprises
As a travel blogger, I often explore faraway countries and regions. Sometimes, I almost forget just how beautiful Baden-Württemberg is. When I had the opportunity to explore my home region for @visitbawu, I realised just how lucky I am. After all, I grew up close to two real highlights: the small-town gems of Schwäbisch Hall and Ellwangen. Now I finally had the chance to take my time exploring both towns and the surrounding countryside. In this article, I introduce you to these two gems and hope to inspire some of you to visit – because they are certainly well worth discovering.
Schwäbisch Hall on the Kocher River
A Town Straight Out of a Picture Book
Although I had already been to Schwäbisch Hall several times for appointments or to run errands, it took me quite a while to finally make time to explore – and enjoy – the town as a visitor. And I can tell you now that Schwäbisch Hall took me completely by surprise: I had no idea just how beautiful it was.
Schwäbisch Hall has so many sights and attractions that there is little chance of getting bored. The first port of call is probably the impressive St Michael’s Church in the heart of the town. It overlooks the market square, which is lined with beautiful half-timbered houses. The famous Freilichtspiele Schwäbisch Hall, the town's open-air theatre has been staging performances on the grand staircase in front of the church for more than 100 years. Be sure to climb the church tower: from the top, you can enjoy magnificent views of Schwäbisch Hall and the surrounding countryside. Other highlights include Unterwöhrd and Grasbödele, two islands in the Kocher River. Their green spaces are perfect for relaxing, especially in summer, and offer lovely views of the old town’s half-timbered houses.
Half-timbered houses, green riverbanks and the gently flowing Kocher River: Unterwöhrd and Grasbödele, two islands in the river, offer particularly beautiful views of Schwäbisch Hall’s historic old town.
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Großcomburg Monastery & Hohenloher Freilandmuseum
Two Journeys Back in Time Just Outside Schwäbisch Hall
Just south of the old town lies another of the region’s famous sights: Großcomburg Monastery. A walk along the Kocher River – or a short journey by car or bus – takes you to the monastery complex, where there is plenty to explore. On a guided tour, you can even step inside the Collegiate Church of St Nicholas. I particularly love the views from the monastery across the Kocher Valley.
Tip
The Hohenlohe Open-Air Museum in Wackershofen is just a stone’s throw from Schwäbisch Hall. Here, you can explore original buildings from a historic Hohenlohe village, including farmhouses, poorhouses and workshops. The buildings were relocated here from the surrounding region – a wonderful journey back in time.
Ellwangen on the Jagst River
A Small Town with a Rich History
The small-town gem of Ellwangen in the Ostalb district is still something of a hidden gem in Baden-Württemberg. Yet this town of around 25,000 residents has so much to offer. Exploring the historic old town is an absolute must. At Fuchseck in the heart of Ellwangen, you can admire a collection of beautiful historic buildings. Mozart and Goethe are even said to have stopped at Haus Zimmerle, a historic building behind the fountain. The Baroque Palais Adelmann, which now houses the town library, also has a long history.
Ellwangen also has a truly unusual feature: two churches – one Catholic and one Protestant – directly adjoining each other. The Basilica of St Vitus and the Protestant Town Church are well worth visiting, both inside and out. Don’t miss Ellwangen Palace either, where you can also visit the museum. Its magnificent architecture is impressive, while the palace gardens are an inviting place to pause and relax.
Green hills, striking church towers and Ellwangen Palace shape the skyline of this charming small town in the Ostalb district.
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Schönenberg Church and Ellwangen’s Museums
Wonderful Views, Fascinating Sights and Plenty to Enjoy Whatever the Weather
Ready for a short excursion? Leave the old town behind and visit Schönenberg Pilgrimage Church on the outskirts of Ellwangen. The pilgrimage trail leads from the foot of Schönenberg up to the church, and the walk from Ellwangen town centre takes around 30 minutes. Once at the top, you can admire the pilgrimage church and enjoy magnificent views of the town and surrounding countryside. Especially in fine weather, this excursion is an absolute must while in Ellwangen.
Rainy-Day Tip
Ellwangen also has plenty to offer when the weather takes a turn for the worse. Visit the Alamanni Museum or relax at Ellwangen’s wave pool. There is certainly no chance of getting bored.
Hiking the Kocher-Jagst-Trail
Discover the Hohenlohe Region on Foot
Schwäbisch Hall and Ellwangen are well worth a visit – but don’t miss the beautiful countryside surrounding these small-town gems. One of the best ways to explore it is along the Kocher-Jagst-Trail, a 200-kilometre circular hiking route connecting Ellwangen, Schwäbisch Hall and Crailsheim. The route is divided into three sections: the Bühlersteig, Jagststeig and Kochersteig trails.
If that sounds too long, you can, of course, explore any section of the Kocher-Jagst-Trail. I hiked around 16 kilometres from Ellwangen to Willa near Rosenberg. The route is well signposted, and most places along the way are served by local buses. In fine weather, the Kocher-Jagst-Trail is certainly one of the region’s highlights.
Over around 200 kilometres, the Kocher-Jagst-Trail combines tranquil countryside, sweeping views and attractive destinations along its stages.
Practical Tips for Schwäbisch Hall and Ellwangen
Getting There, Getting Around and Planning Your Time
To round things off, I’d like to share a few tips for your visit. With these in mind, you’ll have everything you need for a successful trip to the Hohenlohe region:
Both towns are easy to reach by public transport – I travelled to each of them by train. As the railway stations are centrally located, it is easy to explore on foot from there.
Ellwangen and Schwäbisch Hall are both relatively small, so you won’t need a car to discover them. Even sights a little outside the town centres, such as Großcomburg Monastery and Schönenberg Pilgrimage Church, are only around a 30-minute walk away.
The Hohenlohe Open-Air Museum in Wackershofen is the only attraction a little further afield, but you can still reach it by bus or train. A car will, of course, give you a little more flexibility, but it is not essential.
Both Ellwangen and Schwäbisch Hall can be explored on a day trip. However, you will need a little more time if you also want to discover other attractions in the region, such as the Hohenlohe Open-Air Museum in Wackershofen, or hike part of the Kocher-Jagst-Trail. You can easily spend several days in the region without running out of things to see and do.
Places to Visit in Schwäbisch Hall and Ellwangen
All the Sights and Experiences at a Glance
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CultureArchitecture & buildings
Großcomburg Schwäbisch Hall
Großcomburg in Schwäbisch Hall, a former Benedictine monastery, was founded in 1078. The castle-like complex, with its walls, towers, chapels, and buildings, experienced its first period of prosperity...
Hohenlohe
Go to article
CultureMuseums & galleries
Hohenlohe open-air museum
The Hohenlohe open-air museum in Wackershofen is only a few minutes' drive from the centre of Schwäbisch Hall. Set amid extensive grounds, this idyllic museum village consists of 70 historical buildin...
Hohenlohe
Go to article
CulturePalaces & castles
Ellwangen Castle with castle museum
Schloss ob Ellwangen - the former residence of the abbots and prince provosts towers above the town. The elegant arcaded courtyard, the baroque staircase and the castle museum in the stately rooms are...
Swabian Alb
Go to article
CultureArchitecture & buildings
St. Michael's Church Schwäbisch Hall
St. Michael's Church with its famous staircase towers majestically over Schwäbisch Hall's marketplace. It was consecrated on 10th February 1156 by the Bishop of Würzburg.
Hohenlohe
Go to article
CultureMonasteries & churches
Pilgrimage church Schönenberg
The baroque church on the Schönenberg is a popular place of pilgrimage and has a special feature - a walk-in gallery and a nativity scene is set up behind the high altar all year round. It was built a...
Swabian Alb
Go to article
CultureVisit theaters
Open Air Plays Schwäbisch Hall
The
Grand Steps outside St. Michael`s church: 53 steps, a height of 8
metres and a width of up to 48 metres – probably one of the most
unusual stages in the world. Complemented by the New Globe Theat...
Hohenlohe
Go to article
CitiesSmall town gems
Schwäbisch Hall
Schwäbisch Hall is a town that is like something out of a storybook.
The beautifully preserved historic centre offers an ideal ambience
for art and culture.
Hohenlohe
Go to article
CitiesSmall town gems
Ellwangen
A large castle and Baroque pilgrimage church dominate the town of Ellwangen. This is a place with a special history. Evidence of this is found in the large marketplace and the many Baroque buildings i...
Swabian Alb
Go to article
CultureMonasteries & churches
Evangelical town church Ellwangen
Evangelical town church - frescoes from the first hand
Swabian Alb
Go to article
CultureMuseums & galleries
Alamannenmuseum Ellwangen
In the Alamannenmuseum Ellwangen the time of the Alamanni comes alive again in many different ways.
Swabian Alb
Go to article
CultureMonasteries & churches
Basilika St. Vitus
The basilica is the most important sight and the architectural highlight together with the neighbouring Protestant town church in the town centre. It is considered the most important late Romanesque s...
Swabian Alb
11 / 11
Go to article
CultureArchitecture & buildings
Großcomburg Schwäbisch Hall
Großcomburg in Schwäbisch Hall, a former Benedictine monastery, was founded in 1078. The castle-like complex, with its walls, towers, chapels, and buildings, experienced its first period of prosperity...
Hohenlohe
Go to article
CultureMuseums & galleries
Hohenlohe open-air museum
The Hohenlohe open-air museum in Wackershofen is only a few minutes' drive from the centre of Schwäbisch Hall. Set amid extensive grounds, this idyllic museum village consists of 70 historical buildin...
Hohenlohe
Go to article
CulturePalaces & castles
Ellwangen Castle with castle museum
Schloss ob Ellwangen - the former residence of the abbots and prince provosts towers above the town. The elegant arcaded courtyard, the baroque staircase and the castle museum in the stately rooms are...
Swabian Alb
Go to article
CultureArchitecture & buildings
St. Michael's Church Schwäbisch Hall
St. Michael's Church with its famous staircase towers majestically over Schwäbisch Hall's marketplace. It was consecrated on 10th February 1156 by the Bishop of Würzburg.
Hohenlohe
Go to article
CultureMonasteries & churches
Pilgrimage church Schönenberg
The baroque church on the Schönenberg is a popular place of pilgrimage and has a special feature - a walk-in gallery and a nativity scene is set up behind the high altar all year round. It was built a...
Swabian Alb
Go to article
CultureVisit theaters
Open Air Plays Schwäbisch Hall
The
Grand Steps outside St. Michael`s church: 53 steps, a height of 8
metres and a width of up to 48 metres – probably one of the most
unusual stages in the world. Complemented by the New Globe Theat...
Hohenlohe
Go to article
CitiesSmall town gems
Schwäbisch Hall
Schwäbisch Hall is a town that is like something out of a storybook.
The beautifully preserved historic centre offers an ideal ambience
for art and culture.
Hohenlohe
Go to article
CitiesSmall town gems
Ellwangen
A large castle and Baroque pilgrimage church dominate the town of Ellwangen. This is a place with a special history. Evidence of this is found in the large marketplace and the many Baroque buildings i...
Swabian Alb
Go to article
CultureMonasteries & churches
Evangelical town church Ellwangen
Evangelical town church - frescoes from the first hand
Swabian Alb
Go to article
CultureMuseums & galleries
Alamannenmuseum Ellwangen
In the Alamannenmuseum Ellwangen the time of the Alamanni comes alive again in many different ways.
Swabian Alb
Go to article
CultureMonasteries & churches
Basilika St. Vitus
The basilica is the most important sight and the architectural highlight together with the neighbouring Protestant town church in the town centre. It is considered the most important late Romanesque s...